A wall-mounted Frame TV plugged into a standard outlet has a plug and a bundle of cable sitting directly behind the panel — which pushes the whole TV an inch or more off the wall and leaves a visible shadow gap under every bezel. The fix is a recessed outlet: the plug sits flush inside the wall cavity instead of behind the TV. There are two legitimate ways to get there, and confusing them is the most common expensive mistake in a Frame TV install.

This guide covers both paths — a DIY in-wall power kit and a professionally installed recessed electrical box — what each actually involves, what they cost, and the fire-code reason you cannot just cut a hole and fish the stock power cable through the wall yourself.

Two real paths — compared

Why you can't just fish the stock power cable through the wall

The Frame TV's stock power cable (and the One Connect Cord on models that use one) is not rated for use inside a wall cavity — it lacks the CL2/CL3 in-wall fire rating that building code requires for any cable run inside a stud bay. Running it there anyway is a genuine fire-code violation, not a grey area. Both legitimate paths solve this the same way: an in-wall power kit uses its own listed, in-wall rated cable between the two outlet plates, and an electrician-installed recessed box is simply proper house wiring on its own dedicated run. The TV's own power cable never actually enters the wall in either case — it plugs into the recessed outlet plate sitting flush in the wall, same as any other outlet.

The DIY path: in-wall power kits

Sanus, Legrand, and PowerBridge all sell listed in-wall power and cable-management kits built for exactly this job — extending an existing outlet to a new recessed plate behind a wall-mounted TV without any new house wiring.

1. Confirm an outlet exists within reach on the same wall — most kits are designed to reach a nearby outlet through the same or an adjacent stud bay, not to run a new circuit.
2. Cut the two openings using the kit's template — one at the existing outlet location, one at the new recessed plate location behind where the TV will hang.
3. Fish the kit's own in-wall rated cable between the two openings using the included fish tape or rods.
4. Install both plates — the kit reroutes power from the existing outlet into the new recessed plate, and most kits include a second recessed opening for HDMI/cable pass-through.
5. Test before closing up — plug in a lamp or the TV itself and confirm power at the new plate before you finish the trim ring.
6. Mount the TV and route the One Connect Cord (if your model has one) or the TV's own power cable directly into the recessed plate.

The professional path: a licensed electrician

Call an electrician instead of DIY-ing a kit when any of these apply:

• No outlet within reach. A kit extends an existing outlet; if there isn't one close by, you need a real new circuit run.
• Concrete, brick, or masonry walls. Fishing cable through a stud cavity assumes a standard framed wall.
• Local code or HOA rules require a licensed electrician for any in-wall electrical work, regardless of the product used.
• You want a dedicated circuit rather than tapping an existing one, especially if the outlet you'd extend from is already loaded with other devices.

Expect a professional install to run roughly $200 for a straightforward recessed box on an easily accessible wall up to $800–900+ for a full-service job that includes fishing cable, patching drywall around the opening, and finishing the recessed box.

One Connect Box models need two outlets, not one

On Frame TV models that still use a physical One Connect Box — the 32″, 43″, and 50″ standard Frame plus all pre-2026 generations — the TV itself needs a recessed outlet, and the One Connect Box needs a second, ordinary (not recessed) outlet wherever it's hidden, such as inside a console or an AV back box. The 2026 55″+ standard Frame's built-in connections and the Frame Pro's Wireless One Connect only need power at the TV location itself, which simplifies this project to a single recessed outlet. See the One Connect Box guide for which models use which setup and where to hide the box itself.

Five common mistakes

1. Fishing the stock power cable through the wall cavity directly. It is not CL2/CL3 in-wall rated — always use a listed kit's own cable or proper house wiring instead.
2. Assuming an in-wall kit works on masonry. These kits are designed for standard framed drywall with an accessible stud cavity, not concrete or brick.
3. Forgetting the second outlet for the One Connect Box on models that still use one — a flush TV with a cable-cluttered console defeats half the purpose.
4. Skipping the test-before-close step. Confirming power at the new plate before patching drywall saves a second opening if something is wired wrong.
5. Ignoring local permit or HOA requirements that may apply even to a listed DIY kit in some jurisdictions — a five-minute call to check is cheaper than redoing the work.

A recessed outlet is what makes the flush, gallery-hung look actually work — pair it with a slim, unadorned bezel to complete the illusion. See the bezel guide for finish options, and the renters' guide if drilling into the wall isn't an option where you live.